Seven Days, Whitehaven to Hardy Reef

Day one, Airlie Beach to Nara Inlet. Board mid-morning, lunch under way, and into Nara's sheltered fjord by afternoon: Ngaro rock art by tender, absolute quiet by night.

Day two, Hook Island's north face. Butterfly Bay or Maureen's Cove for the morning's snorkelling, the coral here is the archipelago's best-kept, then around to Stonehaven for a sunset anchorage facing the ranges.

Day three, Langford and Hayman. The Langford Reef sand spit appears with the falling tide; walk it barefoot before lunch. Afternoon off Hayman's blue pools, dinner aboard at anchor.

Day four, Whitehaven. The main event, done properly: anchored off the southern end by evening so day five starts with seven kilometres of silica to yourselves.

Whitehaven at seven in the morning and Whitehaven at eleven are different beaches. Sleep at anchor and take the first one.

Day five, Hill Inlet and Border Island. Tender to the Hill Inlet lookout on the rising mid-tide for the swirling sands, then across to Border Island's Cateran Bay, usually empty, always worth it.

Day six, the reef by air. Seaplane or helicopter from the anchorage out to Hardy Reef: Heart Reef from five hundred feet, a pontoon landing, back aboard for a long lunch. The afternoon is for the toys.

Day seven, the slow run home. A last swim at Palm Bay or a final hour on the sand, then back toward Airlie with the ranges going violet astern.

Every day of this flexes with wind and tide, which is the point of a crew that runs this water all season. The full Whitsundays guide covers the ground in depth; dates and yachts through the enquiry desk.